Surf zone morphodynamics during low-moderate energetic conditions; the TASTI field experiment

The influence of cuspate swash dynamics on transient surf zone circulation is investigated using both field observation at the low-tide terraced Grand Popo beach and wave-phase resolving numerical simulations. The ability of the model to describing low-tide terrace beach hydrodynamic is tested, and the model is further applied to investigate the role of wave reflection over a rhythmic swash zone pattern on surf zone wave and current. In the numerical simulations, these mechanisms drive higher surf zone irregularities with beach cusps than for an alongshore-uniform swash zone morphology. Rhythmic swash-based reflection generates a standing wave pattern visible in current and wave fields. The positive feedback of reflection on incoming waves drives occasional strong flash rips occurring with different frequencies than individual waves or groups. The so called breakpoint-swash system is thought to pulse with its own temporal characteristics, which depends on wave forcing but also on surf zone terrace and cuspate morphology